Monday, 3 December 2018

The story a shawl tells



What’s in an outfit?

Skirts, shirts, tops, trousers’, coats, scarves and many more; every article of clothing has a name, or multiple names, different countries may call the same article of clothing by different names. Then there’s the eternal debate of British vs. American English, sweater vs. jumper.


Coming from a mixed tribe family, Namely Angami and Chakhesang, the sweater vs. jumper debate has often made its way into my vocabulary. Some may argue, that both tribes coming from the same Tenyimia conundrum; share many cultural and linguistic similarities. And they are absolutely right, both the chakhesangs and Angamis do originate from the same branch, in fact the Chakhesangs were once known as the Eastern Angamis. 


The split came and that itself is a long long story. As a result of the split a new tribe, the chakhesang's came into being. The tribe itself was unique as it was a collaboration of three linguistic groups- chokri, Khezha and sangtam, hence the name chakhesang; cha for chokri. Khe for Khezha and sang for sangtam. It was also one of the first and only collaboration known to the state Nagaland.  The collaboration split again ,with the sangtam choosing to stand as an independent entity. But Even with the split the name chakhesang stuck, and no changes have been made till date.

So where does the sweater vs. jumper debate come into this truckload of information?  Many places surprisingly. Especially if you compare angami to the chokri of the chakhesang, the language sounds similar and to someone like me, who speaks both its almost identical save for a few words. Though friends who speak only angami claim that chokri sounds ineligible and vice versa. To put it simply angami is the British English to the American chokri, at least in my household. This is not to claim one is more superior to the other, both have very similar structure but vary in tone and articulation. The reason why I call angami British English is because of the formal education institution in India, which is largely based of British English and my own education at home, where we siblings primarily spoke angami among ourselves because our mother was angami.  Chokri on the other hand was like American English, always around, but we only used it casually to address our friends, and more formally to converse with our father.

So it became natural to mix the two in my household, sometimes I would start a sentence in angami and end it with chokri. Other times the exchange was more subtle and most times such instances went unnoticed. Our mistakes would usually come to light when we spoke with a pure angami or chokri speaker, or if the bi lingual person had an awareness of the difference between the two. But most times these two languages blended in pretty well, despite some differences.
I remember an incident about an aunt who spoke a little angami, and made up the rest with chokri. They say she was shopping at kohima bazaar,
                                           KOHIMA BAZAAR
 and she approached an angami vegetable vendor and spoke in perfect angami

“Chüvino ga hau kediki ga?”

“How much do these chüvino ga cost”

And before I proceed, forgive me because I don’t know the scientific name of the vegetable .and despite looking through multiple flora and fauna journals on Nagaland ,I never found the English name of the green, slippery and slightly bitter tasting vegetable. But going back to the incident I had to mention, because it was and is still the perfect example of things being lost in translation.

She asked for chüvino ga,

Chüvino literally translates to tasty leaves, if taken into context it means something like tender or soft.

Ga- means vegetable

Hau- this

Kediki ga- how much is it, or what does it cost.

So no problems there, the sentence following the name of the vegetable is also formal and very correct, and in chokri the vegetable is called tiveno ga- meaning tender leaves. But the correct way of saying the sentence in angami would be.

“Lievino ga hau kediki ga”

The words chüvino is replaced by lievino, which also means tender or soft leaves but from a different context, hence it cannot be called chüvino ga because that would mean something else.

As confusing as it sounds, this is me during a family meeting being corrected by elders and cousins.

Other times I throw words around for years, never knowing it’s not supposed to be spoken that way. Most end in a discreet rebuke by an aunt, in the corner of the kitchen .sometimes I’m not so lucky and it ends in public embarrassment. Who knows at this very moment someone might be narrating the story of the cousin who got the context of “cough “wrong creating a hilarious misunderstanding. The positive thing is my uncle always remembers me whenever someone says “cough” in angami.

So it’s pretty much the American vs. British English debacle in my perspective. and it doesn’t stop with language; sure the Americans and the British also have their own cultural politics going on, but I will stick to my own context, that is the naga chakhesang- chokri- angami context, and the context in which i was born and raised.

Unlike the garment sweater or jumper, which can mean something you pull over your head, something without buttons, or something whose meaning changes with context ; but at the end both words means a  garment . That is not exactly the case for the Naga traditional attire, each item carries a name and the designs vary according to tribe, and sometimes according to village. The angami and chakhesangs have similar color schemes because they come from the same Tenyimia range, but no two are exactly alike. Aside from the multiple garments, men and women have very different jewelry, and each carries meaning, there’s also a time and place to wear such jewelry













A simple line can become a marker of your tribe and your village. And it’s no joke to say a single line and color matters, because everything carriers meaning and a simple line may just carve out your place in society.

The story goes that my father, a newly married young man attended a church meeting at a small village. Throughout the service he felt the gaze of a middle aged woman on him, and when the service ended the lady approached him asking if he was someone from Khonoma. Turns out my father was wearing the shawl my aunt, his sister-in- law had gifted him; a shawl which marked its origins because of one single line on the border. And the eagle eyed lady later explained that only those from Khonoma or with relatives (wife is from Khonoma) from Khonoma would wear the shawl.

Incidents like these are not rare and every once in a while people would use shawls to start conversations, maybe discover you’re related or make lifelong friends. It is a marker of identity, that’s why the aunt in kohima knew the vendor was angami, because of the mekhala she wore or perhaps it was the orange beaded necklace ;or it might also be because kohima is predominately angami.

Today’s generation are sadly not so eagle eyed, even so mothers make sure daughters and sons stick to age appropriate wear. This point is very important, because it explained your stance in the society, your age and your achievements. If the wrong person wore the wrong shawl, it would be like me wearing Mary kom’s multiple gold medals around my neck, claiming them to be my achievement.

Seriousness aside, with the coming of Christianity and the end of head hunting, hosting a feast of merit to gain the honour of wearing a particular shawl no longer applies. Nowadays, honor and achievement is measure in different degrees and presenting of shawls also follows these new guidelines. The rules are more lax now and people tend to mix and match, there are even websites which sells the shawls of honour for the right price.

But things have not changed too much in the village; in my chakhesang village we still adhere to the right place and time to wear a shawl or jewelry. Sure one can break the rules and wear one the NSUD night in Delhi, and no one will say anything. Rumors may float but it tends to die down when people find new things to talk about.

But does it feel ethically wrong? Yes I does.

 Of course no one knows what the vague guidelines for achievements even mean, villages may interpret it differently, but one line sticks

“You have to earn the honour”

This sounds like moral policing and to a point it is, but if you are someone from the village like me, people are going to gossip when you step out with a thupikhü; especially if you are deemed unworthy or have not done enough to warrant the honor. and personally i would like the be formally presented a shawl by the elders, just because it saves the cost of buying your own shawl. 

Unlike the other traditional items the thüpikhü is one of its kind, though designs may vary it is considered the highest grade of honor in most chakhesang villages. Other tribes like the angami, sumi, lotha, Ao, etc. have their own shawls of honor but the thüpikhü is unique to the chakhesang.
 The story goes that a sister came up with this elaborate design in honor of her brother, when he first hosted a feast of merit. There is also a legend that the all embroidery must be done before sundown.


The shawl which symbolizes, prosperity and generosity was presented to a couple who had performed a feast of merit, though it was primarily designed for men; the female design came much later. And the shawl is very colorful, with each pattern standing for something.

The series of pictures will elaborate how much embroidery it requires.

                                            PATTERNS ON THE THUPIKHU

While elephants, mithuns and animal heads were used for men, the female motif included. Cowry shells, bathsü, Baskets and more.

 It is also as expensive as it is beautiful, especially because it is painfully hand woven and embroidered. Today cotton yarn is not hard to find but about sixty years back, most people had to pick cotton by hand and spin it into yarn and then dye it. This process took days and even months, the ceremonies attached to it didn’t make it easy either. There is a story to illustrate the value of cotton, something an aunt once told me in the passing.

The story is very similar to Romeo and Juliet, or jina and etiben.

 They say, a man of lower standing fell in love with the daughter of a rich warrior with many sons. The lovers wanted to marry but couldn’t because of their different financial standing. The man decided to earn and expand his cattle, so he may be worthy enough to ask for her hand in marriage. But it was taking time and taking a toll on his poor body; the girl wanted to help so when they went to collect vegetables in the forest, she slipped her armlets into his basket. When her brothers asked she said she lost it.

Many months later the man invited the girl and her brothers, to collect cotton in his forest garden. When they arrived he filled his loves basket to the brim, they say it was so heavy she found it hard to walk.
                                         BASKET( MEKHO)

 In the evening when she rolled out the content of her basket on the straw mat her armlets rolled out.

My aunt never told me how the story ended ,or if  the lovers even end up together. she had more important things to do;like interpreting the actions of the man. according to her, that the man wanted to ask for her hand in honesty; with no help from her family’s wealth.

 I looked more at the heavy basket, today if a couple worked in the same orchard or field, the man would ensure her basket was the lightest or even help her carry it. Well I’m referring to the more stereotypical romance situation, but that aside, should we call what the man did cruel?

“They say it was so heavy she found it hard to walk”.

Not really, his action, as my aunt puts it was very romantic. It was an act of love; because cotton was very difficult to harvest at the time. To collect enough cotton for one shawl was a mammoth task, so the man wanted to make sure she had more than enough. 

Though I never found out what happened in the end, I got to watch what happened to the cotton. 

During my trip to the village I was lucky enough to watch my aunt prepare a shawl. Though I didn’t get to witness the first stages of its production, I was lucky enough to witness her neighbor roll out the wool and arrange patterns, allowing my aunt to take on the last steps of weaving and embroidery.
CHAKHESANG WOMAN WEAVING 
( ps. not my aunt, had a video of her weaving but could upload it due to the size and format)

The whole process is back breaking and my aunt saved time by using ready-made wool, but in the chakhesang region where my father is from, people still dye their wool by hand and they use a very unique ingredient, the nettle.( both plant and tree is used)

The process is long and laborious and requires certain ceremonies.

It starts with the nettle harvesting; the nettle is boiled to separate it from the thin layer of bark. The raw material is cooked for no less than a day.


In the next step the yarn is removed from the pot and beaten with a wooden block to soften the yarn. The yarn is then rinsed thoroughly and soaked in hot water for another three to four hours. It is further rinsed with clean rice flour broth in a betükhu (wooden basin). The rice flower also acts as a dyeing agent, turning the yarn whitish. Sorting is done following the rinsing of the yarn and the flour bits that fall from it are eaten by young girls.  After this step the yarn is coiled into a ball and is ready for meandering, which is used with the shuttle for weaving.

Because it was considered taboo for the thebvo to be bitten by tooth, so it was separated from the drinking water at home and even eating before its preparation, was a ceremony in itself.  It was also considered taboo for young boys to consume the bake cakes from the rice flour which had been used for dyeing the yarn. And it was customary to offer rice beer after the boiling of the thebvo (nettle). 

With all the taboos and tradition in place it was mostly customary for the yarn to be prepared in the forest under flowing water.Because of this practice I always missed the preparation part, and yes times have changed but most times people stick to the forest because of the abundance of freshwater.

So throughout the text I mentioned being from the village, so as a person from the village did I ever learn how to weave? The answer is yes and no, yes because I had a weaving stint and no because I never managed to complete a shawl. All I have to show for is the weaving materials and the pinkish muffler, collaboration between a neighbor and me, an item I see in pictures but can never seem to find.

Today if someone in the big towns wanted a shawl they could got the nearest handloom store and buy a ready-made, machine made shawl this was cheaper and faster, but in villages it’s a little more personal. If my family wanted a shawl we would go to the store buy the shade of cotton yarn we wanted, meet the artisan, make mild length adjustments if needed but we mostly stick to the standard size. After that its communication, my mother usually visits the artisan twice a month to check the progress and this exchange goes on till the shawl is done and the payments is complete.

That is not to say people in big towns only buy machine made goods, most people in big town place order through relatives or when they visit the village. But making friends with a good artisan definitely pays off, regularly checking and communicating makes it more personal. At the end if one says that the shawls looks the same, you can say ‘yes they do’; but there is a story behind my shawl.

 And that is the story I hope to tell when I earn the rights to wear a thüpikhü, a shawl which has long captured my imagination ever since witnessing the colorful ensemble cover my grandfather’s body nineteen years back. The shawl is not yet a part of my possession and perhaps it never will be, but if does fall on my shoulders I’m sure the shawl will be a maker of my achievements, the shawl of stories, the history of my life. On the day I die the shawl will be buried with me, just like it did with my grandfather and many others, the thüpikhü’s journey will end with one generation, till the next earns the right to wear it. Until then I’ll stick to the lovely shawls my mother approves for me.

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